Battle Begins
June 11, 2008
In my haste to rid my garden of the evil Striped Cucumber Beetle, I bought two different kinds of insecticidal dust containing Rotenone from a local hardware store. I never used it, especially after calling my favourite organic gardening centre and finding out that they don’t carry products with Rotenone as it’s been linked to Alzheimer’s. Yikes! They suggested a couple of different products so I headed out there after work last night.
I was all ready to buy Safer’s Trounce until the horticulturalist told me about End-All II, a concentrated product by the same company that is a miticide/insecticide/acaricide. It controls all stages of aphids, whitefly, scale, spider mites, and mealybugs on houseplants; and aphids, caterpillars, beetles and other listed insects on fruit trees, landscape trees, ornamentals, flowers, shrubs and vegetables. It’s a better product than Trounce as it contains an oil that is more effective against pests. It also said I could reapply it again in 10 – 14 days if the pests return, it could be used up until the day before harvest and I should wash my vegetables before consumption. I felt pretty confident about the product so I bought it, even though it was a bit pricey and way more than I needed:
I mixed it with water in a sprayer and headed out side.
Apparently striped cucumber beetles are more active during the evening and early morning, hiding out in cracks and crevasses in the soil during the heat of mid-day. So I was waging war at a good time. I sprayed the crap out of each damaged leaf in my garden, on top and underneath, all the way down to the stem as well as the newly germinated tray of replacement cucurbits that I thought I had tucked safely away in the house (I had found two beetles inside my house and immediately smooshed them).
I checked the leaves this morning and didn’t see any sign of any beetles. The day before I had seen about 4 or 5, but none this morning. Success!
Then I took the spray bottle and sprayed my Asiatic lilies (infested with red lily beetles) and gifted brugmansia (infested with spider mites) for good measure.
I’m crossing my fingers and hoping it works!
Infested!
June 10, 2008
Ahhhh! My garden has been infested with striped cucumber beetles! Here’s a picture of the damned bug:
I noticed them last night when I was inspecting my garden. There was a lot of leaf damage on all of my curcubits and I was trying to figure out what had done it. I scooped up two that were mating, took them to work and found out (to my dismay) that they are striped cucumber beetles.
Here’s just a small sample of their destruction:
I read up on these little buggers and started to lose hope. After mating, females lay their eggs in the soil at the base of the plant. The larvae hatch in a week and begin feeding on the roots and stems of the plant. After two months they pupate and the adults start feeding on the vines, foliage, flowers and fruit of the plant. Not only that, these little f%@&#%* spread bacterial wilt to cucumbers and muskmelons. Prevention and non-chemical control involves rotating cucurbit crops each year, covering with floating row covers, applying a heavy mulch or picking them off by hand (difficult as these guys fly). The chemical option is to use Rotenone, something that I am loathe to do.
It’s looking like I’m going to have to rip these plants out and not have any fresh zucchini, cucumber or melons at my home garden this year.
UPDATE
I called a local organic gardening centre and they said to use Safer’s Trounce or to plant radishes near the area. I mentioned Rotenone and they said they don’t carry it anymore as it was linked to Alzheimer’s. So, Trounce it is!
Gourmet Lettuce and Mustard Greens
June 5, 2008
I started my lettuce and mustard greens indoors mid-April and transplanted them outside in mid-May. They’re really happy in their location which is on the eastern side of my tomato trellis. As the season goes on, these lettuce and mustard green plants will be shaded by the tomato plants and will result in slower bolting (a.k.a. going to seed) in the summer months.
I planted a few trays of Gourmet Heirloom Loose Leaf Lettuce mix which includes Black Seeded Simpson, Red Oak Leaf, Red Deer Tongue, Bronze Arrow & Cracoviensis. I also planted some Mustard Green mix of Mizuna, Red Giant, Southern Giant Curled, Tatsoi, Tendergreen and Osaka Purple as well as some Persian Broadleaf Cress.
Since all the seeds came mixed in a glassine envelope I have no idea which is which, except for the most obvious leaf types. I’m pretty sure this is Red Deer Tongue lettuce:
A mix of Mustard Greens:
More Mustard Greens. I think the rounded one in the bottom right is Tatsoi:
This is definitely Persian Broadleaf Cress:
Once I figure out who is who, I’ll post some more pictures of individual leaves. Right now all I can say is they taste pretty delicious mixed up in a salad with some lemon vinaigrette.
To Prune Or Not To Prune
June 4, 2008
I’ve been reading hot debates over whether or not to prune tomato plants.
You’ll read a wide range of opinions on pruning tomato plants. Some gardeners don’t remove a thing, some just the suckers and others the suckers and the branches below the first set of flowers. Non-pruners believe that leaving the suckers gives you more fruit and pruners believe that removing the suckers give you less but bigger fruit. There are some who practice even more extreme pruning. Yikes!
I love experiments and was happy to find a Garden Web thread on Organic Tomato Magic, a style of pruning where you prune all the suckers and the leaves underneath the first flower branch. Check out kubotabx2200′s posts and test results (with pics!) on this pruning method.
Since I’ve planted my tomatoes in a row in sets of two I’ve decided to try my own little experiment. I’ve decided to prune only the suckers off one set of plants and leave the suckers on the other set.
What is a sucker? It’s a small growth at the crux of the branch and stem of a tomato plant. Here is a Cherokee Purple that has not been pruned:
You can see that there are two suckers on it on either side of the stem. Here is a Cherokee Purple that has been pruned:
See the little nubs in the crux? That’s where I pinched them off. As the season goes on, I’ll be interested to see the difference between these two plants. Maybe I’ll find the stones to plant a third Cherokee Purple and try pruning the suckers and the leaves underneath the first branch of flowers.
Potato vs. Regular Leaf
June 2, 2008
I finally got around to taking a close-up of the difference between potato and regular leaves on tomatoes.
REGULAR LEAF
Regular leaf (RL) is what most people are familiar with when it comes to tomato plants. The edges of the leaf are serrated or “toothed” as some would say.
RL of a Black Plum:
POTATO LEAF
Potato leaves have a smooth edge and are usually larger in size.
PL of a Black Pear:
Once you start growing tomatoes from seed you’ll notice that the leaf type is often included in the description. This way, you’ll know if your seeds have been cross-pollinated if the incorrect leaf type shows up.